Guide to Driving in Crete: Everything You Need to Know + Tips for Car Rental!


Before moving to the island, we would travel to Crete every year and explore off-the-beaten-track areas on road trips. In fact, the only way to discover the best of Crete is by car, this gives you a sense of independence that has nothing to do with bus schedules. Once we moved to Crete, having our own car was essential. Driving in Crete became second nature.

Since I always recommend renting a car to explore the island, here’s all you need to know about renting a car and driving in Crete.

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Driving in Crete: Explore the Island On the Road

Tips for car rental and driving in Crete

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Boat cruise to Balos Lagoon & Gramvousa
Ticket to Knossos Archaeological Site

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There’re many reasons why driving is the best way to explore Crete. Not only Crete is the biggest Greek island but it also has a unique natural landscape.

A road trip from the extreme west to the extreme east can take you from 5 to 6 hours. You can bet there’s a lot to see.

driving in Crete

Stunning coastal drives, winding mountain roads, and undiscovered beaches are worth the drive.
The comfort of a car lets you visit areas where buses don’t usually go or arrive with limited schedules.

If you decide to completely rely on public transport in Crete, you will depend on the bus timetable. And you will miss beautiful hidden villages, archaeological sites, or beaches, concentrating mostly on the touristic northern coast.

Are You Ready to Drive on Crete?

driving in Crete
On the way to Omalos, Chania region.

Driving in Greece, in general, and on Crete in particular, is a controversial issue. Greece has long been known for its chaotic traffic, high rate of road accidents, and bad drivers.

European statistics prove all of the above. However, things are improving, and, little by little, driving conditions seem to be changing.

When it comes to Crete, though, some bad driving habits remain. Locals live by the siga siga philosophy (taking it easy) on an everyday basis, but then experience a sudden rush to arrive (no matter where or how) when they get on the road.

INSIDER’S TIP: siga siga is the local philosophy for taking it easy, pretty much typical of the Cretan character… except when on the road, of course!

Moreover, some roads could really do with some improvement, whether it’s their conditions or their actual size. Crete is a mountainous, rather narrow island. As a consequence, our roads are narrow too, some say that it’s a question of lack of space…

Instead, it looks more like a lack of budget! Some roads need serious widening more than just the usual pre-seasonal facelift.

We could also do with better roadsigns: At least bigger and with better visibility.

You might also want to read What to Pack for a Road Trip in Crete: Genius and Practical Packing List.

driving in Crete
The dirt road to get to Balos Beach.

In any case, believe me, you can — and will — enjoy driving on Crete. Especially if you avoid visiting Crete’s overcrowded touristic landmarks during the peak season.

Driving on Crete can be a pleasant experience, you will create unforgettable memories, admire spectacular landscapes, and stop whenever you want to enjoy the island at your own speed.

Not sure whether driving is the right choice for you? Discover how to get from Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos or from Heraklion to Chania.

Should I Rent a Car in Crete

driving in Crete
Road to Xerokampos, South Crete.

I guess you know my reply, don’t you? If you’ve been following my blog you already know that I support independent and slow road trips on Crete.

This blog is not about all-inclusive holidays, fast day trips, or rushing from one tourist spot to the other. I want you to discover a different side of Crete.

And the only way you can do it is by car… So yes, you definitely should rent a car in Crete. From day one if possible!

Renting a car in Crete is fairly simple. First of all, consider when you’re planning to visit:

Car Rental in Crete

Those traveling in the peak season (July-August-September), should book a car online well before the departure date to get better fees and save some money.

If you book in advance you might be able to get the compact (and cheaper) models while if you wait until the last minute, you’ll probably only find vehicles of a higher category that are normally more expensive.

If you travel to Crete at the beginning of the season (May and June) or at the end of it (October and November), it’s easier to find a car even upon arrival. Don’t push it, though, if you can book in advance, do it.

I always recommend Discover Cars to compare fees and find cheap rentals among hundreds of local and international car rental agencies on the island. Click here to find the car that will drive you around Crete!

In both cases, make arrangements to pick up the vehicle at the airport (or port). Nothing can beat the comfort of having a car from the beginning. Besides, who wants to lug bags on a public bus?

Finally, most local companies let you choose a different city for pick-up and drop-off. Check this possibility online beforehand.

driving in Crete
Road to Elafonisi, Topolia Gorge.

TIP: I suffer from vertigo when I’m in the mountains and I hate bends. Trust me… if I can drive on Crete, anybody can drive on Crete!

General Information About Driving in Crete

driving in Crete

So, you’ve rented a car and now it’s time to drive on Crete.
Keep the following details in mind to have a safe holiday on the road.

Driving in Crete is not as hard as many say it is. Just remember that to enjoy your ride you’ll need to relax but remain always alert and aware.

Basic Rules & Tips to Drive in Crete

The first rule to remember is that in Crete cars are driven on the right side of the road. This is especially important for those coming from the UK, Australia, or Cyprus, to mention a few countries where this rule doesn’t apply.

This also means that cars will have the right of way when they’re coming from the right.

Road Signs

This is a pet peeve on Cretan roads. I personally find signs to appear always too late. They’re not always visible soon enough for you to leave the highway without missing an exit or making a turn.

Reading a bit of Greek (at least understanding the alphabet) could be of help. Most road signs in English are preceded by a few meters by the same signs in Greek. Take advantage of the double alert in both languages whenever you can.

Remember that the English transcription of most words doesn’t follow any rule of coherence. You can find the same city written in different ways on different signs:

  • Chania/Xania
  • Rethymno /Rethimnon
  • Iraklio/Heraklion, and so on…

Some signs have been heavily damaged by graffiti, while a few villages on Crete are famous for using their road signs as bullet targets (Cretans love to shoot …but that’s another article!).

Many road signs are old and impossible to read, so keeping a GPS or map handy is not a bad idea.

Are you getting ready for a holiday in Crete? Check this flexible itinerary for 3 or 2 weeks on the island.

Bushes on the Road

Be aware of bushes. Crete is a very lush island, plants often grow — excessively — on the side of the road (mainly in early Summer, after all the winter rain).

Bushes usually hide signs, and you might miss an exit.
They also hide bends, other cars, pedestrians, and goats. Be careful and move away from them.


Don’t be surprised if locals ignore road markings. Cretans will usually overtake in the presence of a double solid white line. And they won’t respect the speed limits either.

Don’t let that put you off, move towards the emergency lane and let the ones in a rush overpass you.

This tip usually surprises visitors. After years of having friends over and dealing with tourists daily, I’ve decided to put this in writing because people normally don’t take this piece of advice seriously.
But trust me, it’s really important and it shouldn’t be overlooked:


  • Driving on the emergency lane on the National Road: If someone wants to overtake you, don’t hesitate and move into the emergency lane to give them space. This is imperative if you want to have a relaxing experience.
  • Do not move to the emergency lane if the road is curving to the right. This would dramatically reduce your visibility and might cause an accident if there’s someone parked on the emergency lane ahead of you, out of immediate sight. In this case, the driver behind you will need to wait.

Flashlights (and/or Horns)

They are there for a reason, use them!

  • If you’re overtaking, it’s a good idea to flash your headlights at the car ahead to let him know you’re about to pass him.
  • If they do the same to you, they are telling you that they will overtake you. Please, gently move to the emergency lane and let them pass.
  • If a driver coming in the opposite direction quickly flashes twice at you, this is a friendly warning: There might be an obstruction ahead or simply a police control. Don’t ignore the warning.

Traffic Police

If you play by the rules and respect the traffic regulations, you won’t need any special suggestions.
Mainly during the high season, speed controls are common.

On the main National Road (Kissamos-Sitia), there are speed radars and cameras along the road. If you pay attention you will spot the signs.

When on holiday, there’s no need to rush. Avoid an unpleasant situation, and keep it slow.

At night, especially during the weekends, it’s common to find traffic police checking alcohol levels on drivers, usually near big cities. Don’t expect the police to skip control on you just because you’re a tourist. Worry not, most policemen speak English!

Drinking and driving is illegal in Greece, so don’t get in trouble. Consider adding an extra driver to your rental contract. This way, if you decide to have one more shot of raki someone else can take your place at the wheel.

Beware of Goats…

… and sheep, many of them! As well as pigs, hens, you name it!

driving in Crete
Goats resting on a bend, Imbros Gorge.

Goats and sheep populate the Cretan roads both in the mountains and in small villages.

They can appear all of a sudden at the turn of a bend, and be unwilling to move away from the road. Just take it easy and avoid speeding (not that you can speed in the mountains).

In villages, goats might be less common than sheep, pigs, and even geese. I’m not joking.

My neighbors keep both hens and geese, and I’ve often found myself trying to avoid them with my car more often than I’d like to. The same goes for pigs, I’ve come across them a few times in different villages.

Be aware of stray dogs and cats (there are many). Hedgehogs are also easy to spot in the middle of the road.

Should I Rent an Off-Road Vehicle?

Best places to visit in Crete by car

This is another question they ask me a lot. A lot! Especially friends who know I used to drive an off-road vehicle in Italy.

The truth is that after moving to Crete, I never even considered going back to 4WD. You don’t really need it, not even in the mountains.

If you’re a careful driver, a compact car will take you anywhere (spending less on fuel, and taxes if you are a resident!).

driving in Crete

Even on difficult roads such as the way to Balos Beach, the scenic but narrow road to Elafonisi, or even on the way up to Anopoli, in Sfakia, small cars do just fine.

Remember, most locals go after small cars, so taking a look at what locals drive (and no, I don’t mean farmers with trucks!) will help you make up your mind.

Other than that, many small villages have pretty narrow roads as well.

Road, gorge, mountain, Crete
Regular (no 4WD) cars on the road to Balos.

If you’re still uncertain, small cars are highly requested in most car rental companies, and these same cars take tourists all over the island.

Those who can afford the extra price tag to have some more space should go for it! Driving a 4WD can be great fun. However, be aware that most rental companies don’t include off-road insurance.

On the other hand, and if you’re on a budget, there’s no need to worry, a small Fiat Panda, a Hyundai i10, or a Suzuki Celerio will take you everywhere.

Roads on Crete
Crete Northern Highway (BOAK)

driving in Crete

There’s just one main highway road on Crete, the Greek National Road 90 (BOAK or A90 on roadsigns) is Crete’s Northern Highway.

It connects the western city of Kissamos to the eastern city of Sitia, bypassing the four main cities of Crete: Chania, Rethymnon, Heraklion, and Agios Nikolaos.

If you’re not interested in exploring the hinterland, this is the only road you will drive.

You might also want to discover how to spend 3 weeks on the road in Crete.

Mountain Roads of Crete

driving in Crete
The main highway and the mountain roads.

To reach the famous beaches of South Crete, as well as some of the Western ones, the enchanting hidden villages, as well as wineries, archaeological sites, or far-off monasteries you will have to get off the National Road and venture into the mountains.

When in the mountains, keep an eye on falling rocks. Although there are some nets they aren’t everywhere.

driving in Crete

You can find rocks and pebbles on the side of the road, especially if the island went through a very wet winter.

Most mountain roads are made of asphalt and are in fairly good condition.

Some might lack guardrails or other protection. This makes them look quite impressive, but if you’re careful enough, there’s no real danger. ì

driving in Crete

REMEMBER THIS: If you suffer from vertigo or mountain roads look scary, and you hold a valid driver’s license, try changing the passenger seat for the wheel.
Driving will put you “in control” of the situation and you won’t suffer the experience.

Driving in Big Cities

driving in Crete
Traffic in Chania can be a bit… different!

The main cities of Crete tend to be trafficked. They’re even more crowded in Summer when hundreds of tourists add to the already many cars on Crete.

Traffic won’t be an issue when driving off the beaten track, but in big towns, things tend to be chaotic, mostly in the evening, when people leave the beach and go for dinner or a walk in town.

Keep in mind that, if you hate heavy traffic, going to town by car in the middle of the day is a good alternative. When everyone is on the beach, roads are less busy… plus the city will be easier to explore too!

driving in Crete
Descending from Imbros towards Sfakia.

In all of Crete’s important towns, some areas are restricted (most old towns are pedestrian), so finding a free parking spot can turn into a nightmare.

Agios Nikolaos, for instance, lacks a proper old town however, it stands on very irregular terrain, which means you might have to park on very steep lanes at times.

In any case, remember that Crete is a fairly quiet island. It won’t be like driving in New York or Milan… trust me, you’ll be more than fine!

A Word on Parking

Parking Matala Beach and carved tree

Many beaches, archaeological sites, and monasteries have designated parking spots that you can use for free. In some popular areas, it’s necessary to pay a small parking fee during the high season.

When trying to park in a city, look for a private parking facility if you’re not familiar with the area, it will avoid finding a parking ticket on your windscreen.


I’ve gotten a few parking tickets myself for not having coins with me to pay (I know… my bad!). Parking in some public spaces requires you to pay the parking fee through a vending machine that only accepts coins. Don’t be like me and always keep a few coins at hand (usually €1 stands or one-hour parking).
Parking fines (at least in downtown Chania) were not that high, I had never paid more than €10 myself.
However, since the new administration took over, making changes in parking fees and introducing a new parking app, prices have gone up a lot, so avoid fines at all costs!
Payment is done online or at the municipality, and credit cards are accepted.

Safety Tips to Drive in Crete

  • Common sense should prevail, if you use it, you’ll be safe.
  • At the same time, don’t trust that other drivers will be using common sense. Locals are known for “forgetting” to indicate they’re turning or suddenly stopping without any warning. Again, as long as you’re focused, you’ll be ok.
  • Seat belts and special driving seats for children are obligatory. Use them!
  • Respect the speed limits (even if locals don’t). In urban and suburban areas, the speed limit is 50 km per hour (32 mph), on the National Highway, the limit is 90 km per hour (56 mph).
  • The minimum driving age is 18, however, some rental companies will require you to be older or have a second driver.
  • Don’t drink and drive. Remember that the alcohol limit is 0.05% (so it’s fairly easy to go over it with just a couple of beers and a bit more than a glass of wine).
  • Don’t use drugs and drive.
driving in Crete
Road to Balos Beach.

Necessary Documents to Rent a Car in Crete

driving in Crete

Make sure you have all the documents you need to rent a car and drive in Crete a few months ahead of your trip. Extra time will allow you to renew any document without rushing at the last minute.

European citizens: The regular and valid European driver’s license will be enough to drive in Greece.
Citizens from countries outside the EU: You need an international driver’s license, check with your local authorities and the rental company.

Be aware: Even when some car rental companies will only need your international license, Greek Law states that you must also present your valid country license. Don’t leave it at home.

driving in Crete
From Rethymnon to Frangokastello.

Always carry an official identity document (identity card for European citizens or passport).
A credit card is a must for international car rental companies.

It can be necessary for some local rental companies. Check this detail in advance.

Local Car Rental vs. International Companies

driving in Crete

I only speak from experience. And my experience is… Try to go local!

We’ve traveled by car for years on the island and have always hired cars from local companies. Prices are better, conditions flexible, and it’s common to get some extra advantages, such as a no-excess policy for a very small fee.

Even after we moved to Crete, I bought my first car after a while of living on the island. For the first six months, I used to rent a small car from a Cretan company.

As a side note, back in my country, I had some behind-the-scene experience working with international car rentals, I don’t doubt there might be some serious ones, but if there’s is one thing I’ve learned, is to avoid them.

driving in Crete
Driving by the sea, off-road to Balos Beach.

I’ve used different companies on the island but compared and booked using a car rental search engine.

>> Unfortunately, the first car I bought in Crete turned out to be a piece of sh!t… so I ended up renting a car more often than I would have wanted until I could sell that car! Trust my word when it comes to car rental on Crete. I’ve really been there!

Discover Cars is a car rental search engine that searches the most trusted LOCAL rental companies all over Crete and it finds the best deal for you. Compare prices for rental cars in Crete here.

Final Considerations about Renting a Car and Driving in Crete

driving in Crete
Rogdia, Heraklion.

After what you’ve read, you might wonder how safe driving on Crete really is. It’s quite safe if you follow some basic rules, avoid excessive drinking, and conform to local etiquette (overtaking… remember?).

Touring Crete by car has always been my favorite way of discovering hidden gems, some on purpose and others by chance. Are you ready to drive in Crete?

>> Which car rental service is the best to choose? If you want to rent a car for your trip, consider Discover Cars, a worldwide car rental booking engine.

>> Join our Facebook Group!

More resources to enhance your Crete adventure

Start by checking out my guide to planning your trip to Crete, packed with helpful essential information. Explore the articles on prices in Crete, common mistakes to avoid, and insider secrets. You can also get one of the digital travel guides I’ve written about Crete. They are affordable and practical to check from your mobile.

When it’s time to plan, explore the best places to visit on Crete Island, discover my tours and activities, and be amazed at Crete’s incredible beaches. If you are exploring specific areas like Heraklion, Rethymnon, Lasithi, and Chania, I’ve got detailed guides to help you make the most of your time.

Suggested accommodation in Crete

No time to read all my accommodation guides? Check out these places to stay:

Pin This Guide With All the Info You Need to Drive in Crete!

driving in Crete

About me:

Gabi Ancarola | The Tiny Book

Gabi Ancarola

I have lived in Chania, Crete, since 2016. As a local, I have an intimate knowledge of the Crete. I host culinary and concierge tours and experiences in Crete and write about the island for several travel media. During the last five years, I have helped many travelers plan the perfect holiday in Crete. I co-authored DK Eyewitness Top 10 Crete and had more glasses of frappe than any regular person could ever handle.

10 thoughts on “Guide to Driving in Crete: Everything You Need to Know + Tips for Car Rental!

  1. Michele says:

    Hi, We will be in Crete in October and renting a car. When you reference the emergency lanes are you referring to the moving to the right which is what we do in Seattle to let faster drivers pass us on the left? Thanks so much for clarifying and your awesome blog!

    • Gabi Ancarola says:

      I refer to moving to the right, yes, but onto the emergency lane, because there’s just one lane per way on most of the highway.

  2. Philip Kay says:

    Hi Gabi
    Thanks for the tips With just two full days what would you suggest if we must take in Elafonisi, Chania, Lake Kournas based in Heraklion.

    • Gabi Ancarola says:

      Based in Heraklion, I’d say spend two full days in Chania with a day trip to Elafonisi, on your way back to Heraklion you can easily stop for a short visit at Lake Kournas

  3. Stav says:

    Hey Gabi, firstly – thank you SO much for all these amazing blog posts about Crete. Planning my two week holiday to Crete has just been made much easier since finding your website and I am forever grateful 🙂

    On driving – I was looking at Google Maps and it seems like it can take you through some pretty weird routes. I am Aussie and everyone here just uses Google or Apple Maps on their phones as their car GPS, but I am wondering if it’s not as up-to-date in Greece… What do the locals use to navigate? Thanks!

    • Gabi Ancarola says:

      Hi Stav,

      I have used a GPS in the past but I’ve recently ditched it and started using just google maps on my phone. Never had an issue. I know many people use WAYZ app with great results, you might want to try both?

  4. Mahmoud El guindi says:


    I’m looking for 1 mont rental in Crete, Chania. Is Airbnb the best option? Any suggestions?


  5. zofia says:

    Hi Gabi, what a useful blog you have! I am now preparing for a trip Poland-Crete in June and stressing over this whole car rental experience (read some scary opinions on some companies not being very honest and trying to charge you for scratches and whatnot, that were already on the car before you arrived in the island). Also, is it true you can’t have even a small (cabin) suitcase inside the car? That is what someone told me when I called for a quote. I wanted a really small car as I’m a single mum travelling on a budget. They told me the suitcases must be in the boot.
    Anyway, I’m so excited about this trip and your blog is very helpful, Thank you!!

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