Sougia, Crete: Complete Guide by a Local

Like Matala, in the Heraklion region, Vai in Lasithi, or nearby Paleochora, Sougia was one of the many hippie destinations in Crete during the 70s.

That bohemian and relaxing atmosphere has never left the village. Today, the settlement is a unique destination for those seeking a relaxing, very quiet atmosphere where there’s not much to do but much to rest, walk, and eat – three of the basics during any Cretan holiday!

Despite being so small, in the village, you can find those basic amenities and services that are indispensable to spending a few days in the area, including fish taverns and seaside restaurants.

However, there are a few small convenience stores and markets, rooms to let and studios, souvenir stores, a church, different bars, and coffee shops.

Be advised that the village does not have a bank (although there’s one ATM open in the summer season), a pharmacy, or medical services. There’s only a small infirmary for basic first aid.

Your nearest option for those will be Paleochora (about an hour by car). Plan accordingly, packing all necessary medication you take or might need and enough cash.

The main reason to visit the village is its long beach that features dark, coarse sand and pebbles.

As in many beaches on the Libyan coast, the water is very cold, clear, and quite deep. This is important to remember if you’re visiting Sougia with the kids.

The 1.5-kilometer-long beach starts at the exit of the Gorge of Lissos, where you will also find Sougia’s small port.

At the end of the beach, there is a hidden rocky cove where many people feel free enough to enjoy the sun without a bikini (check out more Nudist Beaches in Crete here).

A more family-friendly beach is to be found right opposite the village’s main street, where there are also organized structures featuring restaurants and bars, umbrellas and loungers, showers, and a lifeguard (in summer).

If you don’t want to pay for an umbrella, get to the beach early and seek shelter under one of the several tamarisk trees along the beach.

During the season, from the end of May until late September, Sougia remains connected to nearby villages by a daily ferry service that can take you to Chora Sfakion, Loutro, Paleochora, Agia Roumeli, and the nearby Gavdos Island.

Where is Sougia

Located about 75 km south of Chania, at the end of a long, winding road through the White Mountains (Lefka Ori), Sougia is a small village by the sea, standing at the end of Agia Eirini.

Agia Eirini (or Agia Irini) is a popular gorge in the Chania region. It’s on the island’s southern coast, overlooking the Libyan Sea.

How to Get There

The village of Sougia is in the Chania region, southwest of Crete, about 75 km from the center of the region’s capital.

Bus Chania – Sougia

You can also get to Sougia by bus from Chania. A limited but effective public transport service connects Chania to Sougia, featuring two daily buses (in the high season, only one in winter). The journey takes about two hours. Prices and bus schedules are published here.

The current schedule for Chania-Sougia for 2023 is the following:

Alternative Ways to Get to Sougia

Another possibility is to take a taxi from Chania to get to Sougia (or to Chania from Sougia). If you depart from Sougia, you might want to book the service in advance as the village has very limited service. The staff at your hotel can help you with this.

You can also organize an airport transfer from Chania Airport to Sougia and find affordable transfer services here. Alternative methods to get to Sougia from nearby villages include the boat and your legs!

Boat: Ferries and boats reach Sougia from Paleochora, Agia Roumeli, Loutro, Gavdos Island, and Chora Sfakion, and cars are allowed on board.

Bad weather conditions can cancel your boat ride, so plan in advance, leaving at least one extra day. Check out the ferry schedule and ticket prices here.

Those who come to Crete to enjoy the many hiking trails and paths can get to Sougia hiking from Paleochora.

The gorgeous coastal path that connects both towns takes about 4 hours, while the trip by car is about 50 minutes.

Map of Sougia

You can also check out this interactive map Chania – Sougia:

Sougia in the Past

In ancient times, Sougia was the port of Syia, a sheltered harbor serving the ancient city of Elyros.

Most of the ancient town and port did not survive a strong earthquake in the fourth century AD, which raised the shore about 6 meters.

Elyros was one of the most important cities of southwestern Crete in antiquity, with a strong Doric tradition associated with worshiping God Apollo.

The city established a political and economic alliance with the nearby cities of Hyrtakina, Lissos, Tarra, and Poikilassos, known as the Oreioi Confederacy. They even minted a common coin.

Elyros thrived during the Roman and Byzantine eras, but it was later destroyed by Saracen pirates who attacked the south of Crete.

Today, you can visit parts of the ancient Roman city at the foot of the eastern mountain range, including parts of the so-called Sougia Aqueduct which brought water to the ancient town from a spring in Agios Pavlos. Remains of this aqueduct can be seen on the road to Sougia. 

To the west of the mountains, it is also possible to check out the ruins of Syia’s necropolis, featuring vaulted single tombs.

The remains of an early Christian basilica (thought to be from the sixth century) stand at the present site of Agios Panteleimonas Church. A mosaic floor that might have belonged to another early Christian building can also be observed nearby.

Near the Kamarianos River, there are ruins from a third basilica from the same period, including parts of the walls and traces of a mosaic floor. 

Who Visits Sougia Today

Sougia is not for everyone. Only those looking for utmost relaxation and tranquility will enjoy life in the tiny village.

The place, completely untouched by massive tourism, is still a peaceful settlement where life is made of long days at the sea and walks in the mountains.

Another important fact is that Sougia receives most of its visitors throughout the summer rather than just in July and August.

Sougia tends to be fully booked from early April to June and then from late September to early November.

As with many other small, southern villages, visitors tend to come back year after year to enjoy the area’s laid-back spirit.

Things to Do in Sougia

There are a few things to do in and around Sougia. Check them out!

Sougia Beach

This is the most obvious thing people do in Sougia. The incredibly long beach offers wide spaces, never feeling truly full. The sand is dark and coarse, with pebbles or large rocks in some areas.

There is an organized area, ideal for families, where you can rent an umbrella and loungers. Some other parts of the beach have traditionally been visited by naturists.

Naturism is well-tolerated in the village. There is a limited choice of water sports available in Sougia as well.

Walks In and Around Sougia

Other than the obvious walk along the seaside road that locals and visitors enjoy during summer, after a day at the beach or a delicious dinner, it is possible to enjoy some incredible hikes around Sougia.

The most popular ones include the following:

Walk from Sougia to Lissos

This is an easy hike that takes about 90 minutes each way. Lissos is an interesting place to visit if you want to see some ruins of the ancient civilization that populated the area.

This walk begins at the port of Sougia and is marked with E4 path signs in several spots.

A good part of the path is shaded and a bit uphill. In Lissos, you can see the remains of an Asclepius Temple, part of a Roman cemetery, and two small chapels.

There are remains of habitations, terraces, and ancient olive trees. Once there, you will find a small pebbled beach, but the area is deserted, so if you plan to spend the day, you will need to pack lunch and drinks.

There are boat rides available to Lissos that depart from Sougia as well.

Agia Irini Walk

Also known as Agia Irini or Saint Irini, this is a popular gorge hike in Sougia. There are fewer crowds, and the hike is shorter than in Samaria. The beautiful gorge is 7.5 km long with a milder descent (500 meters instead of over 1500 in Samaria), and it takes 2.5 to 4 hours.

Agia Eirini is also open all year round, and most of the walk is in the shade of pine and oleander trees.

At the gorge’s exit, you will find the famous Oasis Taverna, where it’s possible to get transport to reach Sougia Village. You must pay a small fee to pass the gorge (€2).

Walk from Sougia to Paleochora

Following the coast towards the west, another popular hike takes you from Sougia to Paleochora (located west of the settlement). It is mostly along a coastal path that’s slightly over 15 kilometers.

The E4 path winds from Palaiochora to Sougia along the coast. The hike has some easy sections, while on others, you will find dangerous loose stones and some climbing needed.

There are a few steep ascends, so good shoes are a must. You can return to Sougia by boat in the late afternoon. Check the schedules before getting on the road.

Hike to Mount Ochros

With an elevation of about 800 meters, the local mountain can be an easy hike for those who are just starting or do not feel like hiking longer distances. The views of the village and the sea are quite rewarding.

From Sougia to Koustogerako

Koustogerakos is a small mountain village about 10 km from Sougia, about 500 meters up the green mountains covered in cypresses.

From here, you can enjoy a fantastic view of the underlying valleys. Once you’ve reached Koustogerakos, you can walk to Omalos through an old oak forest.

Discover Moni Village and Eat Local Delicacies

Although there are some fantastic seaside restaurants along the coast of Sougia, it’s a good idea to drive up the mountain to the nearby Moni village, to discover a small, solitary, family-run taverna where local dishes are made with fresh products from the area.

Here, you will taste homemade Cretan specialties and top Cretan extra virgin olive oil, home wine, and homemade desserts. The place is called An to Petyxeis Taverna Kafe, and you won’t regret a visit!

In Moni, it is also possible to visit quite an odd sight: a unique conical pyramid, which was not found in any other area in Crete. Its circumference is about 16 meters, about 5 meters high.

The pyramid features an interior room that might have been used in the Roman Era belonging to the nearby town of Elyros (today, Sougia).

How Long to Stay in Sougia?

If I were to joke, I would answer this question by asking you how stressed you are. I think a week in Sougia is the best antidote to stress you can find!

However, of course, it all depends on how much time you have to spend on the island and if you’re also planning to visit other parts of Crete during your trip.

Sougia can be an excellent destination on its own, as well as a good day trip from Paleochora or Loutro and even from Chania if driving along the local mountains is also part of your itinerary in Crete.

Even when you can see all the village in less than a couple of hours, Sougia is a charming place where you can enjoy a good book, relax, discover the mountains, indulge in Crete’s simple cuisine, and disconnect from everyday stress and modern life’s fast routines.

Best Places to Eat in Sougia

Check out these places to eat in Sougia:

• To Tzitziki sto Almiriki: One of the most popular places in Sougia for a nice meal close to the sea. The restaurant has excellent reviews and is famous for its fried zucchini snacks, perfect with a glass of cold beer.
• Polifimos: Although not on the beach, this is a fantastic traditional place. Choose a table on their patio and taste local handmade recipes, such as fried kalitsounia pastries with honey and lamb kleftiko.
• Rebetiko Taverna is one of the oldest and most traditional restaurants in Sougia. It offers a good and affordable Greek and Cretan menu.

Places Near Sougia You Can Also Visit

These are some of the places I recommend checking out during your stay in Sougia.

Paleochora

One of my absolute favorite destinations in Crete, Paleochora, is a must-visit place if you’re staying in Sougia or have never been there.

One of the main characteristics of the spectacular coastal village is that it covers more than 13 km from East to West and is dotted with magnificent beaches and hidden coves.

The village is quite lively, and there are plenty of things to do in Paleochora.

Agia Eirini Gorge

As I mentioned earlier, this is a rather easy hike and a popular thing to do in Sougia.

The path is well-marked, so don’t worry about losing your way. Just wear good shoes as there will be many ups and downs. It is certainly not a walk for the faint-hearted, but it can be a worthwhile experience.

The gorge is full of trees, so finding shade won’t be an issue. Even if you get tired, there are plenty of small resting spots with benches throughout the path. You can read more about this hike in this article about the best gorges in Crete.

Agia Roumeli is a small village on the southern coast of Crete, better known for its location at the end of the majestic Samaria Gorge.

It is where everybody arrives after hiking the Queen of Cretan Gorges. There are plenty of small taverns and good rooms to spend the night.

Agia Roumeli features a nice pebbled beach where most hikers love to rest their legs after passing through Samaria.

Considered one of the most emblematic coastal hikes on the island, the part of the E4 trail from Sougia to Agia Roumeli is isolated and wild, taking you through the coast and the mountains, and it can also be risky. However, it’s among the favorite walks of experienced hikers visiting Crete.

The trail can take up to 8 hours and should only be done if you have the right equipment and have lots of hiking experience. Doing it with a trained alpine guide is the best option.

Where to Stay in Sougia

The village is really small, and there are quite a few options for places to stay. Sougia is one of those places where booking early is key to finding the right place you want. Many studios are located opposite the sea, so they sell fast.

Check out some of these places to stay in Sougia:

• Aretousa: This simple and comfy apartment complex is surrounded by olive trees. It is 300 meters from the beach of Sougia and features furnished balconies overlooking the mountains. Some units have a kitchenette with a fridge. There’s a garden with seating areas and BBQ facilities, while kids can enjoy the safe playground. There is a bus stop just outside the property.
  Click here for more information and to get the latest prices.

• Pension Irene: The place is 30 meters from the beach of Sougia. It offers air-conditioned rooms with a fridge and a balcony overlooking the Libyan Sea, about 100 meters from the port of Sougia.
  Click here for more information and to get the latest prices.

• Studio with Garden View in Sougia: A wonderful apartment with a garden in Sougia, only 400 meters from the beach, offers air-conditioned accommodation with mountain views. All units offer a coffee machine, and some feature a fully equipped kitchen with an oven.
  Click here for more information and to get the latest prices.

• Monastery Estate Guesthouse: Located in the beautiful village of Moni, about 5 minutes from Sougia, this stone and wood villa offers self-catering accommodation with a fireplace and a patio overlooking the Lefka Ori mountains. Modern and traditional, the unit features a kitchen and a dining area. It’s about 13 km from Agia Eirini Gorge and 28 km from Paleochora.
  Click here for more information and to get the latest prices.

• Monastery Estate Retreat: This three-star accommodation features a pool and sauna, free private parking, a garden, and a terrace. The air-conditioned rooms offer a desk, a coffee machine, a fridge, and a minibar.
  Click here for more information and to get the latest prices.

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