The poet Robert Browning described Lake Orta as being the place where ‘the Alps meet heaven’, and it’s not – of course – a personal definition…
Italian lakes and me…
Italian lakes have grown a reputation as luxury retreats. Postcard-like landscapes and extreme relax are features that have attracted visitors looking for a rest, inspiration, and its magnificent nature for decades.
Sailing as well as staying in stylish villas are an innate part of the atmosphere. Walking the cobblestone centennial promenades, the feeling I get is that a posh woman in a Gatsby dress and a cloche with a feather might come up directly from the Twenties, making me look completely out of place.
That’s why I avoid the lakes. I never liked the lakes in Italy because that’s a recurrent feeling when I visit. And I don’t like recurrent feelings. Nor being out of place.
A long time ago, almost 15 years ago, I was awarded a grant. I wast meant to come to Italy, stay at a villa by lake Garda for over 30 days, have classes in the morning and culture lectures in the afternoon, those in another villa, also by the lake.
You see..? I’m a beach beast.
On a beach the sun looks different, the skin feels different, the waves bring constant energy.
Lake Orta & Isola San Giulio
I somehow managed to stay away from lakes for a while. Yet, I decided to give it another try this last week.
To face the lake with other eyes, and a mind a bit more open. Now that, after so many years, I’m only weeks away from leaving Italy, I thought it might look different.
Lake Orta is one of Italy’s lesser-known lakes and it wasn’t exactly packed with tourists on an early Wednesday morning.
After a walk down the path that faces the little marina, escorted by the ticking of the steel wires against the yacht poles, my boat sailed from Pella to reach the Lilliputian islet of Saint Giulio. It wasn’t love at first sight, but I must admit that I liked it.
Isola San Giulio is 275 meters long and 140 meters wide. And you can walk around it in about an hour. For the last thirty decades, it’s been a Benedictine monastery. A suggestive path, La via del silenzio (Pathway of silence) goes in one direction; La via della meditazione (Pathway of meditation), in the opposite.
It’s all so tiny that obviously it remains traffic-free. There are just a few little cafés. The pace of life is slower than on the mainland, nuns holding books and families wandering the little port waiting for water-buses.
According to the legend, Saint Giulio (Julius of Novara) founded his church here in the fourth century AD.
The island was the lair of a giant serpent, which used the island to attack nearby villages. But the saint, with his ability to command the waves, stood on his cloak over the water and managed to send the monster away.
If you’re looking for a very Italian place, quieter than Lakes Como or Maggiore, you can’t miss Orta. A town itself is on a promontory on the eastern bank of the lake and it is famous for the Sacro Monte, a pilgrimage site part of UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
Orta San Giulio with kids
We arrived on the market day, which means frenzy activities in the main square.
Bars and restaurants full of tourists and boats sailing the lake back and forth from the tiny island.
The town is quite worth a visit after you leave the port behind, walk up the town paths leading to the church of San Rocco, a tiny example of Baroque architecture.
The path right at the angle of the church leads to the center of the village: ice cream parlors, traditional shops or botteghe, pizzerie, characteristic buildings and wide flocks of stairs populate the area, while the Palazzotto della Comunità imposes its presence to the visitors reaching Piazza Motta.
The Palazzotto is an important central structure with impressive frescoes and a colonnade, dating back to the 1500s. The square, instead, faces the promenade and the marina, from where it’s also possible to navigate back to Pella.
Where to eat around the lake
The culinary tradition is typical of the Piedmont region; for a simple yet genuine choice of tastes reach Edera, a small restaurant a few meters away from the square (Via Bersani 15).
Here you can try local mushrooms and fish. Kids will happily feast with huge hamburgers or simple dishes of pasta and will be treated as guests of honor.
If you are looking for inspiration, the lake has always been loved by writers. Friedrich Nietzsche, Samuel Butler, Lord Byron, Honoré de Balzac and Robert Browning visited the lake and have referenced mentioned the surroundings in their works.
For more information get in touch with the municipality here.